Residents of multi-storey buildings often have to put up with the fact that the slab ceilings between floors are laid very poorly, which is why the ceiling is uneven. All their efforts to make it perfect with cement mortars or putties lead to nothing, since the vibration generated by the movement of people in the apartment located on the floor above leads to the gradual chipping of the plaster. Of course, wallpaper can solve this problem to some extent, but the best option is to install a plasterboard ceiling in the house. The ideality of its surface will no longer depend on the quality of the installation of floor slabs. And a two-level plasterboard ceiling in general can make a real attraction out of your apartment, as modern building technologies provide many different options for finishing the upper part of the premises using this material. But not everyone can afford to hire professional builders to carry out such transformations, so homeowners who are not afraid of the difficulties associated with home repairs roll up their sleeves and take on any, even unfamiliar, business.
Required Tools
Of course, only sheer enthusiasm is not enough to install a drywall ceiling, but some tools are also needed. For work you will need:
• level,
• roulette,
• pencil,
• chop cord,
• perforator,
• a hammer,
• screwdriver,
• construction knife,
• scissors for metal,
• grater for drywall.
The procedure for performing work when creating the first level of plasterboard ceiling
Drywall is a very fragile material, therefore, for its installation, a profile frame is constructed, which is attached with hangers or brackets to the draft ceiling. It will allow you to fix the drywall parts in the correct position, achieving their strict horizontality.
Three steps that include the installation of the profile frame of the first level
1. Markup execution. Using the level, you need to mark the points on the walls around the entire perimeter of the room at a height at which the lower plane of the profile structure will be located. According to the marks on each wall, it is necessary to beat off a continuous horizontal line using a chop cord (choke line).
2. Fixing the perimeter UD profile. A UD profile is nailed along the marked lines, but so that it does not cover the line, but it can be seen from below. For this work, you can use a puncher to drill holes, and expansion dowels for mounting the profile on the wall.
3. Installation of the crate from CD-profiles. Moving on to the next step, you need to cut pieces of the CD profile to fit the width of the room. After that, starting from the far wall, the blanks are inserted in turn inside the UD-profile installed on the walls on the left and right sides, forming transverse crossbars, the central longitudinal lines of which are at a distance of 60 cm from each other, and these frame parts are “backed” must look down. It is necessary to fix the CD-profiles from below with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver, screwing them to the perimeter profile. In order to prevent sagging of the future ceiling, it is necessary to pre-nail special brackets (“butterflies”) to the literal ceiling along each crossbar with two dowels, distributing them along the entire length in increments of 50-70 cm and screwing their “wings”, which are pre-bent down, with self-tapping screws to the sides of the profile, following its horizontalness with the help of a level.
Wiring distribution
Most people equip a suspended ceiling structure with various kinds of lighting fixtures, for example: LED strip, spotlights or original-looking chandeliers, as illumination decorating a plasterboard ceiling can create a special atmosphere in the room. But in view of the fact that the installation of lighting elements is carried out after the completion of finishing work in previously prepared places, the cabling must be carried out before plasterboarding is carried out. To do this, lay out the wires inside the profile frame, bringing their ends to the places where the lighting fixtures will be installed.
.
Installing drywall on the first level of the ceiling
When the wiring is in place, you can proceed with the installation of drywall parts. First of all, where possible, it is better to screw whole sheets, focusing on the marks for self-tapping screws indicated by the manufacturer. As a result, the whole sheet should be fixed along the entire length along the central longitudinal line and along the edges.
Those parts of the ceiling, where a whole drywall slab does not fit, are closed with parts cut from it to size.
If the workpiece has a non-standard shape and the location of the frame elements does not allow it to be securely fixed, then additional crossbars from the profile can be added in certain places so that there is something to screw the sagging parts of the drywall to.
It is important to set the rotation speed of the screwdriver chuck in such a way as to have time to stop, otherwise the self-tapping screw will go deep into the drywall by inertia, which can reduce the strength of the material to the frame. It is enough if the screw head is 0.5-1 mm deeper than the level of the sheet surface.
The sequence of actions for the construction of the second level of plasterboard ceiling
Usually, the installation of the second level of the plasterboard ceiling is carried out in order to decorate the upper part of the room. Often it is some kind of figure that stands out against the background of the first level surface, framed by a ceiling plinth or hidden lighting.
Installation of a profile frame for the second level
To install the second level, you must first draw its outlines on the drywall of the first level. Such marking will help determine the dimensions of the elements of the profile frame, which in this case is also necessary for the installation of plasterboard parts. In principle, the supporting profile structure of the second level can repeat the previous frame, only the first level serves as the base ceiling here, or rather, its profiles, to which the “butterflies” are screwed with self-tapping screws (and not nailed with dowels), designed to support CD-profiles of the second level. It is important to remember that drywall parts must be well fixed both around the perimeter of the figure and in its other parts, therefore, the elements of the profile structure must be installed in all necessary places so that this condition can be met.
The blanks of the frame parts are measured so that they do not protrude beyond the line of the drawing, and do not even reach it a little, so sometimes they can be cut not at a right angle, but in such a way as to repeat the bend of the line. Unlike the supporting frame of the first level, where the UD profile was installed only along the perimeter of the room, when constructing the profile structure of the second level, this element is also mounted along the marking line of the ceiling figure. To do this, its side parts are cut into many segments in order to be able to give the workpiece the necessary shape.
As the UD-profile is put on the end parts of the CD-profile located along the marking line and screwed to it from below with self-tapping screws, it gradually bends, repeating the contour of the picture.
Installing this part will allow you to fix the edges of curly plasterboard elements. As for the wall-mounted UD profile, depending on the design idea, there is not always a need to mount it around the entire perimeter of the room, but only in certain places. Sometimes there is no need for it at all if the shape being created does not border on a wall.
Installing drywall on the second level of the ceiling
It is also better to start the installation of drywall parts on the second level of the suspended ceiling by sheathing those parts of the frame where you can screw whole sheets, and then the remaining gaps are sewn up with cut-to-size pieces. Curly elements do not need to be cut out in advance, but it is better to first screw the workpiece to the frame and then cut it along the UD profile. Thus, the edges of the drywall will clearly follow the line of the drawing. Cut edges can be trimmed with a special drywall grater. The UD profile itself should also be closed with a plasterboard strip, which is cut to size and, if necessary, steamed so that it can be bent and screwed vertically to the profile without breaking it. Sometimes the strip width is calculated so that there is a gap along the drawing line between the first and second levels for installing a hidden backlight in the form of an LED strip. But for this, the frame of the second level must also be installed so as not to adjoin the drywall of the first level.
Finishing work and installation of illumination elements
Finishing both levels of the ceiling consists mainly in leveling their elements with putty. But how smooth the surface should be depends on whether the ceiling will be painted or wallpapered.
In any case, before applying putty, it is necessary to cover the joints of drywall parts with a special mixture, after covering these places with a primer layer and gluing a reinforcing mesh there. You should also cover up all the recesses in the drywall in places where it is twisted
self-tapping screws.
As mentioned above, the last step in the installation of this type of suspended ceiling is the installation of lighting equipment, for which holes are drilled in pre-designed places where the necessary electrical cables were previously connected. The power supply for the LED strip can be placed in the same space between the levels of drywall sheathing.
As you can see, the installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling requires not only building skills, but also a certain talent and skill in the field of design, so you should really evaluate your capabilities and decide whether to take on this difficult task yourself or invite specialists to do it.
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