We comprehensively insulate the apartment from the inside

Warming an apartment from the inside may mean some separate types of work, but the issue can also be considered comprehensively. After all, heat losses occur in all directions: the floor, walls, ceiling, windows and the front door (there is only one in a standard-built house, although in the historical centers of cities there are houses in which apartments have two doors each).

We warm the floor

Warming is relevant for the first floors without heated basements. If the height of the room allows, then the maximum effect is achieved when a dry subfloor screed is installed on the floor with the installation of chipboard, plywood or GVL, and wood, laminate or carpet is used as a finishing coating. For a bathroom or kitchen, you can put a water “warm floor” under the tiles. In the case of linoleum, it is possible to install an automated zone heating system with film electric heaters. For laminate or wood, such recommendations from manufacturers are reserved.

In most cases, two layers of insulation in the form of mineral wool and penofol are sufficient, laid under a wooden floor between the joists. That is, there are several options, but it is necessary to first invest significant funds in order to save on heating in subsequent years of operation.

Warm ceiling

As with the floor, the need for such a procedure is rare, only when you live on the top floor. And only in the case when the conditions of the attic or technical floor allow you to perform these works as expected. There is only one type of living space in which the insulation of the ceiling from the inside is vital — this is the attic, where the ceiling and wall are a relative concept. The traditional scheme is applied:

• insulation, fixed on the surface of the ceiling with glue;

• vapor barrier (often used penofol, combining both functions);

• crate, on which the cladding panels are attached, maintaining a certain distance from the insulation (ventilated gap).

wall insulation

The walls have the largest area of ​​contact with the external environment. Warming from the inside is rarely done, most often when the facade cannot be touched or the side wall goes to the inter-block expansion gap. With this method, there is a high probability of condensation appearing on the surface of the main wall or in the insulation material. This is due to the dew point shift. There are two ways to deal with moisture:

• ventilated false wall;

• active insulation (use of «warm wall» technology).

Ventilated insulation is performed in the following order:

• wooden crate (at some distance from the facade);

• reinforcing polymer mesh on the side of the gap (to hold the insulation — mineral wool);

• insulation between the crate, moisture-proof film, decorative cladding.

Ventilation holes (up to 20 mm) must be drilled along the floor and ceiling, and their total area (or number) at the top should be greater than at the bottom.

Wall heating was once done according to the principle of a conventional warm floor. They built an additional wall of aerated concrete, ditched the surface for laying high-resistance wires and connected it to the network through a step-down transformer. Now, with the current offer on the market for industrial manufacturing systems, this is ridiculous. But the very principle of the device «warm wall» has not changed. You can lay the heating element in this way. There is a second option — the use of a film heater, which can be placed under the decorative lining installed on the crate and insulation. This is done without the use of «wet» work.

We insulate doors and windows

Finally, it is worth mentioning the front door and windows. It is best to install a second entrance wooden door. Apply an additional sealing circuit and thus organize something like a mini-tambour, after all, the air gap is the best insulator. If this is not possible, then you just need to insulate the door with a heater, which is sheathed with leather or leather (there is such a finishing option).

Windows should be checked for compliance with «warm installation». If it blows from the window, but the windows themselves are “correct”, it means that during their installation the cracks were simply blown out with foam and plastered with mortar, and the vapor barrier membrane from the side of the street and moisture insulation from the side of the room were not installed. As a result, the mounting foam collapsed under the influence of condensate and lost its insulating properties. This must be eliminated by additionally insulating and protecting the slopes, including from the inside.

An absolutely comfortable home is not a myth, but a reality. Having gone through a phased sequential process of warming according to the main points, you can make your home cozy and warm.